It’s 4 a.m. and I’m wide awake and dying for a diet coke or coke light, as they say here. It will be hours before I get one. I talk Gary into going to the Tsukiji Fish Market. I immediately forget to do what Keiko told me to do – write out where we are going on a slip of paper and hand to the taxi driver. I tried to tell him where, but finally had to show him on the map. I was totally mispronouncing it. We got there about 5:45 a.m. The taxi driver dropped us off and said no taxi! So, we figured we would have to either walk back or figure out the subway system. Gary was not pleased. He hasn’t ventured out much since he’s been here – mostly because he’s been cold. I heard an anglo woman speaking to her children in English and she directed us to the main part of the market. We missed the auctions, but got to see a lot anyway. If it came out of the ocean – we saw it. The workers drive motorized carts. I dubbed them Samurai cart drivers! (Keiko, I hope nothing I say offends you. I mean everything with the utmost respect!) They were as bad as the moped scooter drivers in Rome! I looked to see if Gary took a picture and didn’t find one. I know it’s because we had to be so careful not to get in their way.
After we got our fill of looking at fish, including watching a guy gut a live flounder, we wondered back to the first section. In that section, there were little kiosks of various venders. You could buy almost any small thing used to operate a restaurant. There were lots of knives. One dealer advertised that he would take dollars. You could also buy food to eat there as well. The guidebook said the food for sale would be sushi so we didn’t inquire. When we got ready to leave, more tourists (following the guide books) were arriving. Just as we were settling down to figure out how to get back, I saw a taxi and hailed it. Lucky for us, he understood Imperial Hotel and brought us back. We passed a 24 hour McDonald’s which, as you know, has diet coke. Unfortunately, I didn’t know how to say, “please stop and wait while I get a diet coke.”
When we got back to the hotel, it was all of 6:30 a.m. I did manage to learn how to say good morning in the formal way so I practiced my way through the many service personnel this hotel has. We are staying at the Imperial Hotel which I think is wonderful! Most public entry ways in Japan are automatic – even at the McDonald’s! So, at the Imperial, when you enter the hallway where your room is located, you have to use your card and the glass doors part to allow you in. The room has a door bell. There is a nicely mounted slot that holds the morning paper. No bending over here to retrieve your morning paper! There is an electronic message board that tells the maid when you want privacy and when you want your room cleaned. During the day and early evening hours, there is staff everywhere to assist you. Everyone speaks English. When you get on the elevators in the lobby, there are young ladies who summon them for you. Once for some reason, the floor button wouldn’t light up when I pushed it. I had my gloves on and had just taken them off to try again when the door opened and the young lady was there to assist me. I have to tell you I spent a lot of my first day in Japan feeling slightly stupid. This was the first of those several occasions. The elevators are wonderful. They are immaculate and all have a tiny bud vase with a rose bud. You never have to wait – literally – more than a minute for an elevator.
So it’s 6:30 a.m. and I still want a diet coke. We noticed a McDonald’s on the map near the hotel. We head off to find it. Darn! It’s not open. Most businesses do not open until 10 a.m. Since this particular McDonald’s was in a shopping area, it probably didn’t open until 10 a.m.
Back to the hotel.
My first breakfast was with Gary and Ravi at a nearby Starbucks, where they have had breakfast since arriving. Starbucks is their choice for several reasons: (1) reasonably priced sausage egg biscuits, (2) large cups of coffee, and it’s open. Both Gary and Ravi bemoaned the small cups used for coffee and having to repeatedly ask for more. The Western breakfast at the hotel is $29.00.
Perusing the guidebook, I notice that the museums, for the most part, in Tokyo are closed on Monday. So, Monday is not the best day to start your trip in Tokyo. Reading the guidebook, I determined that I should do a day trip to Nikko or to Kamakura. I consulted with the gal at guest relations and found out that I was a little late to try to go to Nikko. By that time, I only had a half hour to make it to the train station. There was no way. So I went to Kamakura. For some reason I have lost my ability to read a map here. I headed off in the wrong direction. I wasn’t too far gone before I finally figured it out. Anyway, I walked through a residential area of that section of Tokyo to find my way over to the Shimbashi Station. There, I got my much longed-for diet coke at a nearby McDonald’s. Yea!!!! Diet coke in hand, I went to see if I could figure out how to get a ticket and get on the train. I went up to the ticket machine, pressed the English button and followed the instructions. The only trouble was I couldn’t figure out which fare to use for Kamakura. There are always people around. If I was walking, even if it was at a good clip, I would become aware of someone right behind me. I don’t know how many times during the day I stepped aside to let someone who was in more of a hurry get by me. At the ticket machines, I would be pondering my choices and would become aware that all the machines were taken. A glance over my shoulder told me people were waiting. They never hover right behind you like we do in the States. So, I would abandon my machine, and move out of the way, sip my diet coke, and wait for a lull. I bet it took me ten minutes to finally get a ticket. I opted for the guidebook’s recommended “buy cheap and pay up on the other end.” By this time, I was done with the coke and needed a trash can. I finally came across one; but it struck me as odd that it appeared to be paper trash only. A man on a nearby phone indicated that I was using the correct receptacle. I mention this only because I was reading the guidebook later Monday evening and it mentioned that the Japanese don’t walk around eating and drinking. They eat and drink where they buy it and then move on. So unknowingly and being totally unaware of the fact I was the lone person drinking and walking, I managed to commit a no-no.
It took an hour to get to Kamakura. It’s a nice little town with – yes!- a McDonald’s right next to the station. I got my second diet coke and lunch there. I promise you I will get more adventurous with my eating, but I’m working up to it. By the way, they have teriyaki burgers at the McDonald’s here. They also still have smoking sections. I noticed the Moms with the children would bring the kids to sit near the front door – as far from the smokers as possible. The little ones here are just too cute!
I got a map of Kamakura, for all the good it did me since I have been rendered completely inept at reading maps here. I’m hoping it’s just a form of jet lag. I managed to find my way to the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. It was very busy with visitors. There’s a place on the way up to the shrine to wash your hands. I want to say there were three levels. The second level there was a shrine-like building. I think people went in there to pray. There were men and women in some traditional costumes who sold fortunes and charms. On one side, they were burning incense. There was a third level with a bigger building (shrine?). There, people would toss money, I think, into a receptacle that was almost the width of the shrine and then clasp their hands in prayer, bow their heads, and bow. I took several pictures. More on that later.
After visiting the shrine, I walked back through down the Kamachi Dori which is a pedestrian street lined with various shops and loads of people. I decided not to linger and shop until after I made my way to see the Great Buddha. Although I toyed with the idea of walking to see the Great Buddha, I quickly gave up that idea because I couldn’t figure it out on the map. The guidebook said to take bus. So I did. I didn’t see any place to buy a ticket. I watched other people get on other buses and no one seemed to have a ticket. So I just got in line and waited. I got on the bus and was just about to sit down when I saw a lady go up and put money in the machine so I went up too. The bus driver looked at my money and waved me away. I went back and sat down. It took maybe 10 minutes to get there. For some reason, probably because I’m trying to review the map and the Japanese language book, I was surprised when we arrived. As I was walking to get off, I heard someone calling. I looked back and the gentleman sitting next to me handed me the map I dropped. As I get up to the front, the lady sitting there gestures me off so I start to get off – no! no! The bus driver does want money. (My second time to feel stupid.) I get off. As the bus is pulling away, I looked up to see my Japanese buddy tossing my Japanese language book out the window. (Now, I feel really, really stupid.) By the way, I’m the only American on the bus.
The Great Buddha is really beautiful. It is truly a peaceful place. Again, there is a place to wash and people approach the Great Buddha, clasp their hands, bow their heads and bow. I spent a little time here because it was so peaceful.
Next, I walked to the Hase Shrine. First, I had to find the way. I asked a gentleman, a worker, at the entrance. He tells me. I only understand that at some point I should turn right. That six bucks on the language CDs wasn’t for nothing! I leave the area, turn right, and head up the hill. Before I get too far, I decide to ask someone if I’m going the right way. I called out to a fellow -”Hase Shrine?” Of course, I’m going the wrong way. He tells me using hand signals and a little English it’s the other way and take the third right. I finally made it to the Hase Shrine. It’s beautiful too. After you pay to enter, you come into the first level and there is a beautiful pond. I took several pictures. There’s an area with a cave. It’s a grotto with carved statues inset into the wall much like you find in Catholic churches in Italy. There are candles that you can light and leave before each figure. Then, there’s an area where you have to hunch over to walk through and find your way out. There are a number of statues that I want pictures of when I get out. When I tried to take my first picture after leaving the grotto, the camera gave me a message that my card needed cleaning. So I took it out and cleaned it with the cloth like it said. I do this five times. It never helps. The card is dead and all my pictures are gone! I was most upset that Plus I couldn’t take any pictures of the amazing view from the top of the walk (108 steps worth). It broke my heart.
I took the Enoden train line back to the city center. I found a Fuji shop and bought a new card. Hopefully, I will now be able to get pictures, but the pictures of the Great Buddha are lost! After a stop at Starbucks for a cookie, I continued down the Kamichi Dori and shopped and looked around. I came across a shop called Windy’s that sold only dark blue clothing. Since my sister Carol is a blue freak, I had to get a picture. I also took a picture of the street. While in Kamakura, I saw a Century 21 office, and I noticed store windows advertising Valentine’s Day! I had no idea that anyone other than Americans celebrated Valentine’s Day. I am so tired I headed back to Tokyo.
On the train back to Tokyo, I had to stand for about 20 minutes because of all the crowds. Even though it’s only 3:30 p.m., school has let out. You should see the kids in their uniforms. They are quite striking. But kids are kids everywhere around the world, from my observations. I had a group of boys near me, about 13 years old, that cut up with each other the whole way. Their mothers weren’t there. Most of the kids had their mothers with them and there was no goofing off. On the way back as we went through a town, I also noticed a Curves for Women shop. Could not believe it!
Back in Tokyo, near the Shimbashi Station is an upscale grocery store. So I went inside and Eureka! Coke Light in bottles! I have found my favorite store in Tokyo. I bought two coke lights and a banana. This is the nicest banana I have ever bought. It is the perfect ripeness and it’s wrapped in clear cellophane with a nice gold tape sealing it. I once again drink Coke light on my way home, but not the whole way. At this point, I’m still clueless.
When I get back to my room, I collapse and wait for Gary. He has a business social to attend. I really planned on eating dinner at the hotel because I was so tired. He reminded me of how expensive the hotel food was. I launch out to find a tempura place which I do – about ten minutes away.
Well, I don’t know if I saved any money. I spent $35 on a tempura dinner. It was good. Way too much food. I told my sister that I wouldn’t eat sushi while I was here. Wrong! One of the dishes was raw fish of some sort. I think one was a scallop. I ate it. I was afraid I would offend the waitress. I ate just about everything they gave me or at least a little of everything. For sure, I know I had cauliflower and shrimp, cabbage, miso soup, salad, carrot, cucumber, onion. The chef brought the tempura selections to me and dutifully told me what each was – in Japanese, of course. I also had I think shrimp with the shell and the eyes still on and a tempura sardine – head still on. Using the chop stick, I managed to cut the heads off. Couldn’t bring myself to eat heads and eyes. When I finished, the waitress offered me dessert. I declined because I was so full. She explained it was included. I accepted. Thankfully, dessert was two nice-sized grapes on crushed ice and a small square of gelatin. It was a huge dinner. I’m glad that I had a ten minute walk back to the hotel. I’m researching how to ask for just one glass of wine. Maybe by the next dinner, I will know.
